Machine for sewing together and covering the edges of knitted or woven fabrics



1,587,957 G. MACHINE FOR SEWING TOGETHER AND COVERING THE EDGES OF HUBER June 8 1926.

KNITTED OR- WOVE N FABRICS Filed August 25, 1920 l3 Sheets-Sheet 1' June 8 1926. 1,587,957

MACHINE FOR SEWING TOGETHER AND COVERING THE EDGE-S OF KNITTED OR WOVEN FABRICS Filed August 25 1920 l5 Sheets-Shet 2 5o 52 E4 25 Fig: 6

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G. HUBER MACHINE FOR SEWING TOGETHER AND COVERING THE EDGES OF KNITTED OR WOVEN FABRICS Filed August 25, 1920 June 8 1926.

. 1,587,957 G HUBER MACHINE FOR SEWING TOGIfiTHER AND COVERING THE EDGES OF KNITTED OR WOVEN FABRICS Filed August 25, 1920 13 shegts-shet 4 Fig.8

f 46 F M Q A q 27 6; I I! I M j June 8 1926. 1 1,587,957 G; HUBER momma FOR sswme TOGETHER AND covmune THE EDGES OF KNITTED OR WOVEN FABRICS Filed August 25, 1920 v 1.3 Sheets-Sheet 5 Fig.9

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- G. HUBER v MACHINE FOR SEWING TOGETHER AND COVE KNITTED OR WOVEN F Filed August 25,

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G. HUBER MACHINE FOR SEWING TOGETHER AND COVERING THE EDGES OF KNITTED 0R WOVEN FABRICS Filed August 25, 1920 13 sh t -sh t 7 June 8 1926. 1,587,957

. G. HUBER MACHINE FOR SEWING TOGETHER AND COVERING THE EDGES 0F KNITTED 0R wovEN FABRICS Filed August 25, 1920 13 Sheets-Shet' a June 8 1926. 1,587,957

G. HUBER MACHINE FOR SEWING TOGETHER AND COVERING THE EDGES -OF KNITT OR WOV FABRICS I Fil August 1920 13 Sheets-Sheetfl June 8 1926. 1,587,951 G. HUBER MACHINE FOR SEWING TOGETHER AND COVERING THE EDGES OF KNITTED on WOVEN FABRICS Filed August 1920 13 Sheets-Sheet 1o f G. H BER Q momma: FOR SEWING TOGETHERAND COVERINGTHE EDGES 0F KNITTED 0R WOVEN FABRICS Filed August 1920 1:5 Sheets-Sheet 11 June 8,1926; 1,587,957

G. HUBER v MACHINE FOR SEWING TOGETHER AND COVERING THE EDGES 0F KNITTED OR WOVEN FABRICS Fi'led- August 25, 1920 13 Sheets-Sheet 15 Patented June 3, 1926.

UNITED STATES,

PATENT OFFICE.

efis'rav Human, or srurreaitr, ennmmsr.

macnmn ron s nwme roenrrnnn AND oovnnme ran EDGES or nnrr'rnnon woven resales.

Application filed August 25, 1920, Serial No. 405,927, and in Germany April 9, 1920.

My invention relates to sewing machines and more particularly to sewmg machines for producing an overseam to cover a previously made seam. for uniting two pieces of fabric. To this end, my new sewlng machine comprises two separate sewing mechanisms, one for uniting two pieces of fabrlc by an ordinary seam and the other for producing the overseam, the arrangement .belng such that the ordinary seam and the overseam are produced in one operat on. Each sewing mechanism is equipped wlth a separate feed device and separate Presser-feet.

The sewing mechanism for unitlng the fabrics comprises two. closely positloned needles carried by one needle: bar but oflset relative to each other and both cooperating with a common looper.

The overseam mechanism consists of a needle cooperating with a looper, the latter in addition to the'upand downward movement having also a lateral movement toward and away from the overseam needle. Wlth the overseam needle cooperate alsotwo opposed presser feet and a feed device con-- sisting of a conveyor chain, the arrangement being suchthat the feed is accomplished on three sides simultaneously.

.The conveyor-chain is provided in a curved arm of the overseam mechanism, the

outer end of which arm, by aspecial lever extreme end ofthis arm is shaped so as-to act as a spreader to spread the united pieces of fabric to permit the overseam nee le to stitch through the pieces on both sides of the uniting seam so as to cover the same over. The overseam needle is provided in a holder movable on the needle bar and guided by a rocking frame.

Between the needles for uniting the pieces of fabric and the overseam needle is provided a trimming device for trimming off the united edges. Said trimming device comprises an exchangeablestationary fiat lower knife and a pivoted sectoiyshaped upper knife.

Other features of my new sewing machine will appear from the following detailed de-.

scription with reference to the accompany- 1ng-.draw1ng, in which Fig. 1 shows the compound seam as seen from the back, F1g'.

2 shows the 'seam from the front and a cross-section through the pieces of fabric sewed together; Fig. 3 illustrates, on an enlarged scale, the two sewing'operations; Fig. 4 shows in perspective the sewing together; Fig. 5 illustrates the stitching'of the two pieces of goods by the oversea-m needle; Fig. 6 is a front view of the entire machine; Fig. 7 a side View thereof showing the curved arm; Fig. 8 a top plan view;

F ig.- 9 a rear view with the curved arm out i ti'vely in front, sideand top plan view Figs. l8, l9 and 20 show the looperjfor the sewing needles in two different portions respectively in front, side and top plan View; Figs. 21, 22 and 23 show the trimming device respectively in side, front and top plan view; Fig. 24. shows the upper trimming knife when swung out of operative position; Figs. 25, 26, 27, 28, 29 and 30 illustrate the feed mechanism mounted in the curved arm, Fig. 25 being a side View thereof, Fig. 26 a top plan view, Fig. .27 a view from the inner side of the extreme end of the arm, Fig.28 showing the extreme portion, in perspective with the cover'raised, Fig. 29 being a partial side View of the feed mechanism on an enlarged scale and Fig. 30'

a top plan view, Figs. 31-38 are various views of the ledge provided in the forward end of the arm, Fig. 31 being a partial side view of the machine, Fig. 32 a partial front view, Fig. 33 a horizontal section through the holder for the overseam needle and rocking" frame, Fig. 34' a partial top plan View of the ledge shaft on an enlarged scale; Fi 35 a partial side'viewt of the ledge sha t and the ledge, Fig. 36 a top plan view of Fig. 35; Fig. 37 a front view of Fig. 35; and Fig. 38a partial view of a yieldingly mounted tongue. Figs. 39, 40 and ilillustrate the yielding arrangement of the various presser-feet and the manner of release of the spring tension by the actuating lever of the-pivoted arm, Fig. 39 be ing a partial side view of the machine, Fig. 40 a partial rear view thereof broken away to-show slotted pivoting of the rods controlling the presser feet and Fig. 41 a top plan view of the corresponding portion of the machine, one of the springs being shown In section. Figs. 42, 43 and 44 illustrate the manner of swinging out the curved arm,

Fig. 42 being a partial side view of the machine and Fig. 43 a partial top plan view thereof, while Fig. 44 shows the actuating lever. Figs. 45, 46,47 and 48 show the locking means for the curved arm to prevent the same from swinging out while the machine runs at high speed, Figs. 45 and 46 bein partial front views of the machine, Fig. 4

a. partial side view thereof and Fig. 48 a partial top plan view.

As illustrated by Figs. 1 to 5, the two pieces of fabric 1 and 2 are first sewed together in a well-known manner by the needles 3 and 4 which cooperate with the common looper 5. close together, but are offset relative toeach other in the path of travel of the pieces of fabric 1 and 2. Fig. 3 shows the position when the advancing looper 5 with its thread 6 engages the two loops 7 and 8 of the ascending needles 3 and 4 in order to throw off said loops, after the ascent of the needles 3 and 4, onto its own thread 6. The sewed together pieces 1 and 2 which are held together by the presser-foot 9 and are advanced by the feed-mechanism arethen trimmed ofl' by the trimming device comprising the stationary lower knife 10 and "3 'showsthe position, in which the looper 16 has engaged the loop 17 of needle 13. The loop 17 is then held on the finger 18 of the looper 16, until needle 13 has engaged the loop 19 of the looper-thread 20 above the piece 1,

Now I shall describe in detail the con: struction of my new sewing machine. The sew ng mephamsm essentially comprises the two needles 3 and 4, the presser-foot 9 with p the usual stitching plate and the feed do- I vice. The two needles 3 and 4 are arranged side by side in one needle-bar 21 (Figs. 6,7

The needles 3 and 4 are,

merger The needles 3 and 4 cooperate withthe looper 5, which in well-known manner, is operated by a cam 28 (Fig. 19) by means of a back-lash link. The looper receives its transverse movement by means of a link 29' and a bell-crank lever 30 (Figs. 18-20.)

from the lever 31 also used for the overseam looper 16/ I After having been sewed together by the 'needles 3'and 4, the two pieces 1 and 2 pass the. trimming device (Figs. 2124). The

latter comprises the stationary lower knife is mounted in a removable bearing block (Fig. 24), which also carries the looper mechanisms for the needles 3 and 4 and the overseam needle 13. The upper knife 11 has the shape of a sector and is mounted to oscillate about a central axis. The cutting edge is provided at the circumference of the sector, and as the upper knife 11 is rocked u and down it cooperates with the cutting e ge of the lower knife 10. The upper knife 11 is mounted on an arm 33 adapted to oscillate about an axis 34, and obtains its rocking motion about its own axis 35 from a cam 36, provided on the main shaft 27 (Fig.21) by means of a rod 37 and ball joint 38. A spring 39 (Fig. 22) exerts a lateral pressure against arm 33 and thereby against the knife 11. Moreover, knife ,.11 receives a pressure directed against the cutting edge-of the lower knife 10 by the drive mechanism 36,- 37, 38 which pressure, as the-resistance of the cutting edge 32 of the upper knife-increases, that is, where thick fabrics, cross-seams-andthe like are to be trimmed, automatically increases. (Thearm 33, upon anincreasing cutting resistance receives a greater pressure against the lower knife which results'in an increase 1n the lateral cutting pressure). In this way the cutting pressure automatically adjusts itself for heavy material and unequal thicknesses; Moreover,-a coarse adjustment of the cutting pressure can be effected by the adjustment of the spring 39. V

With'the aid of lever 40 (Fig. 24) which contains a'guiding groove 41 into which onters a pin 42 projecting from arm 33, the

'10 and the movable upper knife 11.- The lower knife 1Q has'the usual fiat shape and upper knife 11 can be swung back entirely away from the lower knife 10. In-this way, sufficient space is gained for the relacement of the two knives and for threading the needles. The separation of the uper knife 11 from the lower knife 10 (Fig. 24) also enables the machine to be operated without the trimming device, e. g. for sewing regular edges. Withthe aid ofa lever pivoted to the same lever 76 (Fig. 40).

Both presser-feet 48, 49 are independently yielding so as to insure a uniform pressure against the goods where uneven'parts occur. The independent resiliency is obtained by slots at the pivotal points of the rods74 and 75 so that both pressure feet 48 and 49 have some. play in their direction of movement (see Fig.- 40).

After the pieces of fabric 1, 2 have been sewed together and as they leave the presser-foot 9, they are immediately engaged by the feed-chain 47 and the seam 15 is pressed against the ledge 14 (Figs. 5 and 13). To prevent a premature retraction of ledge 14 and to secure the exact stitching of the edges of the goods by the overseam needle 13, also in cases of uneven portions in the material, there is provided in the forward portion of ledge 14 a resilient member, comprising a spring-controlled part 77 (Figs. 34-38) which moves ledge 14 into the required position for the stitching only when the change in the thickness of the material reaches the height of the overseam needle 13. I

Now, if the goods are tubular and, when finished, are successively placed on the curved arm 46 and the latter can not receive any more goods, the forward end of arm 4.6, as indicated by the broken lines in Fig. 43, can be swung out of its operative position'far enough, toenable the finished pieces to be removed. This swinging movement of the arm is effected bya lever? 8, which in turn operates a lever 79. The latter imparts its movement to a link 80 which is secured to the movable portion of arm 46. 'On the axis 81 of the movable portion of arm 46 there is also mounted the drive roller .for the feed chain 47. When the movable arm portion is swung out, the presser feet 9, 48 and 49 are lifted off by means of the rod 82, the lever 68 and a suit.- able projection on the rod of the presser foot 9 (Figs. 39-41) and all the springs 84, 85, 86,- 87, 88 arerelieved.

For preventing lateral oscillations of the forward. end of arm 46 when themachine is runnin at high speed the forward portion of t e arm 46 is locked by an automatically acting safety device (Figs. 45-48).

This safety device comprises a lever 89 which by means of a member 90.1dcks the lever? 9, which is accomplished by the elbow lever 78 which by means of its shorter arm 91 having a joint at 92 and by means of a link provided at the. other end of lever 7 8 actuates lever 79.. The said safety position is effected by a connecting piece 93 which acts on lever 89. This action occurs, as the forward end of arm 46 is swung out, before lever 79 is actuated by the -elbow lever 78, 91, but as the arm portion'46 is swung in,

the action. occurs only after lever 79' has reached its end position. The operation ofv the safety device at the correct moment is effected partly by the link at the end-of lever 78 and partly by the play occurring at the pivotal point 92' of the arm 91.

To enable the stitch ng of the. material to be accomplished accurately, in spite of the said safety means, a set screw 94 is provided, by means of which the safety member 89 and'90 as wellas lever 79 and thereby arm 46 can beadjusted relative to the overseam needle 13.

'I claim as. my invention: 1

1. The combination with a sewing mechanism for uniting two pieces of fabric, of a second sewing mechanism for producing an overseam to cover the uniting scam, the sewing together and the production of the overseam being done in one operation, and

a spreader interposed between said two sewing mechanisms so as to bend over the sewed together pieces of fabric on both sides of the uniting seam to enable the needle of said second sewing mechanism to stitch through both the bent edges of the sewed together pieces of fabric uniting seam. y

2. The combination with a sewing mechanism for uniting two pieces of fabric, of a second sewing mechanism for producing in thesame'operation an overseam to cover the uniting seam, a spreader interposed between said two sewing mechanisms so as to bend over the sewed together pieces of fabric on both sides of the uniting seam to enablethe needle of said second sewing mechanism to stitch through both the bent edges of thesewed together pieces of fabric on both sides of the. uniting seam, and a movable abutment for the uniting seam while passing said spreader.

3. The combination as set forth in claim 2, comprising a-spring for constantly moving said abutment into the path of the" uniting seam of the pieces of fabric; 1

4. The combination with a sewing mechanism for uniting two piecespf fabric, of a second sewing mechanism for producing in the same operation an overseam to cover the on both sides of the uniting seam, a spreader interposed between said two sewing mechanisms so as to bend over the sewed together pieces of fabric on both sides of theuniting seam to enable the 43 which can be moved over a disk 44 provided with stops 45 (Fi 22) the width of the trim of the seam can e regulated at will.

After the trimming of the seam 15, the spreader 12 bends the pieces of fabric 1 and 2over insuch a way that above and below the seam 15 edges are formed through which seam 15 (Fig. 32).

the over-seam-needle13 ca-n stitch (Fig. 5).

T 0 this end, the spreader 12 is provided at its forward end with a. depression or cavity into which the seam 15 is moved by the ledge 14. The spreader 12 constitutes the extreme forward end-of acurved arm 46 (Figs. 8, 42 and 43) which also contains the feed-device 47 (Fig. 26). in the arm 46, the overseam needle 13, the looper 16 and ledge 14 together with the two presser-feet 48, 49 (Figs. 13, 39 and 40) constitute the means for producing the overseam to cover the regular seam.

The overseam needle 13 for the purpose of the uniform stitching of thick as well'as thin materials and for producing the pverseam is guided in an oscillating frame 5(N(Figs. 31, 32, 33, 34) and is carried bya holder 51 r0- tatably mounted on the needle bar 21. The oscillating frame 50, at its lower end carries the ledge 14 above referred to and is continually pressed by a spring 52 against the In this manner, the goods are always uniformly stitched whether the material is thick or thin.

The set screw 53 (Fig. 32) forms for the oscillating frame 50 an abutment which acts against the pressure of the spring '52, and

by means of the set-screw 53 the stitch of the overseam needle 13 can be limited.

The cooperation of the overseam needle 13 with its looper 16 (Figs-15,16, 17) is new, in that there is imparted to the looper 16, in addition to the ,usual upand downward movement, a lateral movement and a turn toward needle 13 near the end of the upward movement, so that needle 13 can pass between the finger 18 and the looper thread without the looper 16' on its return movement touching the needle since at this moment, the looper 16 makes a movement away from needle 13. Heretofore, for this purpose and especially so as to insure the engagement of the looper thread by the needle,

frequent cases resulted in a breakage of the needle.

The upand downward movement of-looper 16 is,eifected by means of the ball-joint 54 pivoted to the main shaft 27 (Fig. 15)"a nd a lever 31, which also produces the transverse movement of looper 5 cooperating with the.

The feed-device the latter had to be provided with a recess, which weakened the needle and in ceives by means of a guide member 56 mounted. on the looper shaft from a lever 57'. This lateral-movement is so designed that the looper 16 near the end of its upward movement becomes slightly turned toward needle Band at the beginning of its downward movement becon'ies slightly turned away from needle 13.

The two -pieces of fabric 1, 2, during the operation of needle 13 and looper 16 are held by the presser-feet 48 and 49 (Figs. 9, 10 and 1-1).

For feeding the pieces of fabric 1, 2, the feed-chain 47 (Figs. 1013) is provided which chain is mounted in the curved arm 46 and feeds the fabric at the place where spreader 12 prepares the sewed-together pieces of fabric 1, 2 for the overseaming mechanism. 1

As shown more especially in Fig. 13, the feeding of the sewed-together pieces of fabric 1, 2 is effected on three sides simultaneously. As seenin Fig. 26, feed-chain 47 passes over two rollers 58, 59 which are respectively journalle'd in the curved arm 46 and in spreader 12. The chain 47 is positively guided by the groove 60 in roller 59 (Fig. 25) and by suitable guides 61, 62 at the forwardend 63 of arm 46 (Fig. 28) for the purpose of preventing a yielding of the chain and of the pieces of fabric 1, 2 during the stitching operation of the overseam needle 13. The links of chain 47 are so constructed that the pivots 64 of each single link relative' to the preceding end of the link are so disposed that the first teeth of the link 65 when assuming an inclined position on roller 59 30) do not project above the height of the links already in horizontal operating position, whereas the last teeth of the link 65 considerably project above the rear pivot 66 so that the rear teeth of the link 65'already are in working position before the link 65 leaves the roller 59. In this way the teeth of link 65 will engage the oods only when link 65 reaches the horizontal position whereby an interference of the ledge 14 an of the needle 13 and a clamping of the goods Mahdi link to the other is prevented.

The presser-foot9 for the production of the ordinary seam is of well-known con-- struction. It can lifted by the levers 67 and 68 and is controlled by a helical spring 69 (Fig. 39). a

The Presser-foot device for the overseam differs "essentially from the well-known presser-feet devices. prisestwo opposingpress er-feet 48 and 49 (Fig. 40) which are mounted on the telescoping rods-70, 71 (Fig. 39). By'thcse two resser-feet 48, 49, the material prepared for the overseam is pressed above and below against the feed-chain 47,- and when the for-- The new device .com-' needle of said second sewing mechanism to stitch through both the bent edges of the sewed together pieces of fabric on both sides of the uniting seam, an oscillating frame, a holder for the needle of said second Sewing mechanism, means for guiding said holder in said frame, and a ledge carried by said frame and adapted to act as an abutment for the uniting seam.

5 The combination as set forth in claim- 4:, comprising a spring for moving said ledge into the path of the-uniting seam, and a yielding movable part on said ledge adapted to automatically regulate the stitchlooper a lateral movement and at the same time a turning movement toward the needle of said secondsewing mechanism near the end of the ascent of said needle and a turning movement away from said needle near the beginning of its descent. Y

7. The combination with a sewing mechanism for uniting two pieces-of fabric,-of a second sewing mechanism for producing in the same operation an overseam to cover the uniting seam, the said first s ewing mechanism comprising two needles and a single looper cooperating with said two needles, a looper cooperating with the needle of said second sewing mechanism, and a driving means for imparting to said last mentioned looper the required upand downward movement, the said driving means also producing the required transverse ovement of the first mentioned single looper.

8. The combination with a sewing mecha nism for uniting two pieces of fabric, of a second sewing mechanism for producing in the same operation an overseam to cover the uniting seam, a single looper cooperating with the needles of the said first sewing mechanism, a looper cooperating with the needle of the said second sewing mechanism two" opposed presser feet provided for said second sewin mechanism, telescoping rods carryin sai resser feet, and a common spring or yiel ingly pressing said two op posed presser feet against the sewed together pieces of fabric respectively from above and below'the same. i

9. The combination with a sewing mechanism for uniting two pieces of fabric, of a second sewing mechanism for producing in the same operation an overseam to cover the uniting seam, loopers cooperating with said sewing mechanisms, presser feet therefor, and a trimming device interposed between said two sewing mechanisms, said trimming device comprising a stationary lower knife and sector-shaped swinging upper knife provided with a cutting edge along its circumference for cooperation with the cutting edge of said lower knife, and means for sw1n ing said sector-shaped upper knife to and r0. A

10. In the combination as set forth in claim 9, said means comprising an oscillatable arm carrying said upper knife, and an actuator therefor for swinging saidarm towards the lower knife so'that the cutting pressure between the said upper and lower knife automatically increases with increasing cutting resistance.

11. The combination as set forth in claim 9, comprising a rotatable arm carrying said upper knife, and an actuator therefor so that the cutting pressure between the said upper and lower knife automatically in-' creases with increasing cutting resistance, a spring controlling said movable arm, and a means for operating said upper knife from til; side diametrically opposite the trimming s1 e.

12, The combination as set forth in claim 9, comprising a rotatable arm carryin said upper knife, and an actuator there or so that the cutting pressure between the said upper and lower knife automatically increases with increasing cuttin uniting seam, and a feed device for feedin the sewed together pieces of fabric to. sai

second sewing mechanism, said feed mechanism comprising, elements acting on said sewed together pieces of fabric simultaneously on three sides.

14. The combination as set forth in claimresistance, and a manuall operated lever or swinging 13 in which the feed device comprises ansecond sewing mechanism for producing in the same operation an overseam'to cover the uniting seam, and a curved arm for said second sewing mechanism adapted to receive out ofv operatlve position to enable finished pieces to-be removed. I

16. The combination with a sewing mechanism for uniting two pieces-of fabric, of a second sewing mechanism for producing in the same operation an overseam to cover the uniting seam, presser-feetcooperating with said sewing mechanisms, spring thread tensions, a curved arm for said second sewing mechanism adapted to receive sewed together pieces of fabric of tubularsha e,'said arm having a movable forward en portion, a means for swinging said movable forward end portion out of operative position, and

meansactuated by said means for lifting off all the said presser feet and at the same time releasing all spring tensions.

17. The combination as set forth in claim 15, comprising an automatic safety means for automatically -locking said movable forward end portion of said arm in operative position.

18. The combination as set forth in claim 15, comprising an automatic safety means for automatically locking said movable forward end portion of said arm in operative position, and ,a set screw -for adjusting the position of the parts of said safety device relative .to the needle of said second sewing mechanism.

In testimony whereof I aflixmy signature. 

